We travelled by taxis, which was an interesting experience. The cars usually had a cracked windscreen, no internal door or window handles, ripped or absent upholstery, and in one car the dashboard was held together with string. One driver asked us to wait while he fetched petrol, then we were bump-started by a group of his friends. Another had to stop twice to suck petrol through to the engine as the dusty roads caused blockages. It was a noticeable feature - non-existent or archaic technology, but a cheerful make-do-and-mend culture, and never any shortage of people willing to help. The drivers were punctual, polite, honest and friendly, and every ride was an adventure!
For our long trip to Mole we opted for comfort and Sam had booked us an air-conditioned 4x4 for the three days. The car was in excellent condition, fully upholstered and all gadgets working, and Salisu, the driver, was articulate and knowledgeable and provided detailed commentary on everything. The only downside was his habit of arriving each morning with a new reason why we should actually be paying extra to the agreed price per day. The reasons varied from the need to refill the petrol tank to having quoted us in dollars rather than cedi. We compromised on the petrol, but then refused to pay any other 'extras' as the rate had already been agreed. Fortunately he always gave in gracefully and never mentioned it again - until a new ploy was dreamed up the next day.
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